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Almost 18 months passed between the time Chris Bonfili left the Red Room Cafe in East Liberty and when he and his wife, Jennifer, opened Avenue B on Centre Avenue in Shadyside. In this case, absence seems to have made his fans' hearts grow fonder, and within weeks Avenue B was crowded with eager diners.
Mr. Bonfili rewards his old customers with a few nods to his past. Baskets of Mediterra bread are served with cranberry compound butter, which looks a bit like pink frosting but has a great tangy note. His signature appetizers, steamed mussels with chopped tomatoes, whole cloves of garlic and grilled bread, are as aromatic as ever, each plump mussel tenderly bathed in vibrant flavors of the Mediterranean.
But Avenue B is a lot more than just the Red Room re-created. The dining room (which the Bonfilis designed themselves with the help of a contractor) balances formal elements, such as dark eggplant walls and tables covered in dark brown butcher paper, with whimsical details such as light fixtures made from bare hanging bulbs wrapped in thick wire flowers. The tables are a little small, so juggling wine and bread baskets can be a challenge, and the dining room is noisy, but people seem to relish the casual and distinctly urban atmosphere.
Avenue B has drawn in a whole new crowd attracted to the moderate prices, the BYOB option, the frequently changing menu and Mr. Bonfili's culinary style.
Service
Atmosphere
Overall
- Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday and 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday; will be adding Sunday night dinner.
- Basics: This jewel-box of a dining room is a casually elegant setting for internationally inspired dishes that emphasize fresh flavors, "comfort foods" and innovative combinations.
- Recommended dishes: Tempura green beans and sweet potatoes, pork belly with sweet potato bisque, mussels, kobe beef meatloaf, blackened tofu enchiladas, roasted beet risotto, blondie with pretzel buttercream, grilled cheese sandwich
- Prices: Starters, $5-$9; entrees, $14-$16; desserts, $6-$8.
- Summary: Wheelchair accessible; credit cards accepted; reservations recommended; BYOB, corkage $5
- Noise level: Very loud.
A significant component of that style is the understanding that we eat first with our eyes -- he plays with color almost like a painter. Kobe beef meatloaf with goat cheese and chive-whipped potatoes, crispy onions and blistered tomato jam ($21) -- as scrumptious as it sounds -- looks substantially more appetizing thanks to the rich red of the jam and the bright green flecked potatoes.
Pequillo pepper lasagna ($9) emphasizes the soft, silken textures of the roasted sweet peppers, sandwiching large slices between squares of fresh pasta crisped under a broiler. The vivid colors of orange pine nut gremolata and arugula pesto translate to bright flavors, playing off the piquancy of the peppers.
Unexpected combinations and creative twists on classic dishes are another staple of Avenue B's menu. Decadently fatty pork belly was paired with a sauce made from pureed sweet potatoes and a small pile of quinoa, two nutritional super foods.
Steak frites got an American spin ($26) with sweet potato fries and Brussels sprouts, which certainly don't suffer from their blanket of veal demi-glace. This dish has probably converted a number of sprout-haters.
Mr. Bonfili's twin inspirations of international flavors and comfort food extend even to that British staple, fish and chips. Only here, fish ($22), which comes either tempura-fried or pan-seared, was served on a bed of freshly fried potato "chips" rather than the more typical French fries. The contrast between the tempura fried fish and the crunchy, earthy potato chips was pleasant, but this dish got a little monotonous, despite the gentle bite of a malt aioli that had been drizzled over the bowl.
Similarly, a play on fish tacos rendered the fish the odd ingredient out. Two large pieces of roasted grouper filet lay next to a crispy corn tortilla, piled with roasted squash, black bean and lots of sauteed tomatillos. Up against this flavorful mixture, the grouper tasted bland and unexciting.
While fish entrees were slightly weaker overall, vegetarian options stood out for their creativity and rich layers of flavor and texture. A gently cheesy risotto was heaped with wedges of roasted beet and blood orange, diced fennel, a large disk of panko-crusted chevre and a shower of spicy watercress. This dish managed to combine the freshness and lightness of a great salad with the comforting richness of a risotto.
At that point, the menu had earned some trust, so we awaited the arrival of blackened tofu enchiladas with only a little trepidation. Most of the flavor of this dish came from a smoky, earthy three-bean chili, a quantity of intensely sweet stewed tomato, and another portion of slightly spicy arugula pesto. Crisp corn tortillas were crunchy and sturdy, a good foil for the softness of the beans. But the thin, firm slices of tofu added a hint of charcoal, another interesting texture and -- something Mr. Bonfili pays more attention to than some chefs -- it helped make this vegetarian entree a bit more nutritionally balanced.
One of the pleasures of this restaurant is that at the end of a meal that tastes indulgent, that indulgence doesn't weigh so heavily on the stomach or the conscience. Mr. Bonfili clearly loves vegetables and slips them into dishes for the pure pleasure of it. Portions emphasize quality over quantity. They don't skimp on protein but plates aren't filled out with gargantuan servings of starch.
While few diners are likely to leave with leftovers, dessert won't seem out of the question. That's a good thing, because pastry chef Lisa Young has crafted an exciting dessert menu full of enticing options.
Ms. Young clearly has a fondness for salty-sweet combinations. Layers of buttery blondie bars were spread with a thick, soft caramel alternating with a pretzel buttercream that added just the right amount of salt and crunch. Thin slices of bruleed green apples brought a hint of acidity to this sticky-sweet dessert.
Croissant bread puddings can be almost too rich, but Ms. Young's version went easy on the custard and paired the free-form pudding with a scoop of decadent salted caramel ice cream and a handful of caramel drizzled popcorn.
With the exception of the salted caramel, ice cream was the weak point of the dessert list. A Guinness and Framboise float with vanilla and coffee ice cream was tasty, but the ice cream was a little icy, while a trio of cookie-inspired ice creams -- snickerdoodle, chocolate chip and sugar cookie dough -- all tasted a little too much like vanilla.
Avenue B is memorable in one other important, slightly unfortunate, way. Never before had I experienced service that was so technically perfect, yet bordered on unprofessional. One server (whose section we unfortunately landed in twice) exhausted us with nonstop monologues on the dishes, including all the details of what they'd run out of that night and even the occasional detour into the lunch menu. By the appetizer course she clearly thought we were all firm friends, and shoulder squeezing, personal anecdotes and commands to "vote" on our favorite of each course commenced. (Yes, we were sharing plates; no, we did not want to be on our own personal episode of "Top Chef.") It is entirely possible that some people enjoy this style of service, but it should have been clear that we did not.
The most awkward moment was when one guest ordered the grouper taco and the server commented that she wanted to order that as her after-service meal, but people kept ordering it so she was worried they would run out. Perhaps the grouper's real problem was that it came with a side dish of guilt?
All was mostly forgotten when the check arrived garnished with perfectly formed miniature chocolate-almond macaroons. But I'm still trying to figure out a polite way to ask not to be seated in a particular section -- because I can't let one irritating server keep me from returning, and soon, to this very special restaurant.
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