Cherry tomatoes are what's happening in the garden. The large tomatoes, including my favorite Brandywines, have started to ripen. I am delighted. No more green and gloomy looks for me. The other day, my garden basket included a Brandywine weighing over 2 pounds.

While the large tomatoes laze in the relative peace of the kitchen to complete their magic, there are golden cherry tomatoes to enjoy.

This year I'm growing Sun Sweet cherry tomatoes. I used to grow Sun Golds but I've changed my allegiance. Both are super-prolific, orangey-yellow, round cherry tomatoes. They're fruity and sweet, yet tart with lots of character. When really ripe, they turn a lovely apricot color. I like them a touch firm and underripe; that's when the sugar-acid balance pops.

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Sun Golds had a tendency to split. I'd fill a basket with good sound tomatoes, then glance down to find some had spontaneously split. A slightly thicker skin on the Sun Sweets seems to prevent this problem.

On the weekend, my mother and I talked garden. In Buffalo where my parents live, the growing season starts later. My mother has been picking plenty of cherry tomatoes, eggplant and zucchini. She's growing Sun Golds but said my father dislikes the skins. I recall he's not fond of the skin of any tomato and a cherry tomato is a pain to peel. She's most pleased with a red teardrop-shaped grape tomato that has good flavor and texture.

Sweetheart, it's called. Maybe I'll try that next year.

One cherry tomato plant is generally enough for a family, especially a family of two and especially if growing golden cherry tomatoes.

We plant tomatoes in sturdy wire cages so they'll have something to grow in. These plants are out of control. The vines crept and crawled out of the cages. They're sprawled on the ground, leaning on other plants.

You can prune some of the long, roaming vines, especially if you've been stepping on them. Hey, it happens. You'll still have more tomatoes than you need. Later in the season, when I reach that point, I'll make a golden cherry tomato jam, the color of orange marmalade.

I like to serve golden cherry tomatoes simply. A pretty bowl of them on the table, perhaps with some olives, is a perfect way to start a cookout. They're wonderful sauteed in olive oil or butter, in halves or left whole. Maybe spike them with some slivered, sauteed garlic. Finish with a fragrant shower of torn basil, sliced chives or snipped dill.

Halved cherry tomatoes in a salad of large tomato wedges or slices add texture and a burst of sweet-tart flavor. Thinly sliced sweet red onion, basil, olive oil, vinegar and salt complete the dish.

A few years back I wrote and produced a story about growing cherry tomatoes for Nick Jr. Family Magazine. Two of my neighbor's grandchildren, Sadie Stetser and her brother, Justus, were the child models.

The magazine has folded but I've always hoped that the story inspired some young girl, like I once was, and maybe Sadie, now 5, to get outside and plant something. Then just sit back and watch it grow.

PG TESTED

• 3 cups mixed half-moon slices zucchini and yellow summer squash
• 3 cups halved cherry tomatoes, any color you like
• 2/3 cup panko bread crumbs
• 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons olive oil

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Grease 9-inch square glass baking dish.

Mix squash and cherry tomatoes in dish. Spread in even layer.

In medium bowl, mix panko, parmesan, parsley, garlic, lemon zest, salt and pepper. Sprinkle evenly over vegetables. Drizzle with oil.

Bake, uncovered, about 25 minutes until vegetables are tender and bubbly and crust is browned.

Makes 4 side-dish servings.

-- Miriam Rubin